Grade conversion

Sport climbing grades

French UIAA YDS Ewbank
5a V+ 5.7 15
5b VI- 5.8 16
5c VI 5.9 17
6a VI+ 5.10a 18
6a+ VII- 5.10b 19
6b VII 5.10c 20
6b+ VII+ 5.10d 21
6c VII+/VIII- 5.11a 22
6c+ VIII- 5.11b/c 23
7a VIII 5.11d 23/24
7a+ VIII+ 5.12a 24
7b VIII+/IX- 5.12b 25
7b+ IX- 5.12c 26
7c IX 5.12d 27
7c+ IX+ 5.13a 28
8a IX+/X- 5.13b 29
8a+ X- 5.13c 30
8b X 5.13d 31
8b+ X+ 5.14a 32
8c XI- 5.14b 33
8c+ XI 5.14c 34
9a XI+ 5.14d 35
9a+ XI+/XII- 5.15a 36
9b XII- 5.15b 37
9b+ XII 5.15c 38
9c XII+ 5.15d 39
 

Bouldering grades

Font Grade V-Grade
5 V1
5+ V2
6A V3
6A+ V3/V4
6B V4
6B+ V4/V5
6C V5
6C+ V5/V6
7A V6
7A+ V7
7B V8
7B+ V8/V9
7C V9
7C+ V10
8A V11
8A+ V12
8B V13
8B+ V14
8C V15
8C+ V16
9A V17

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

What is the average height of the best competition climbers?

Image
While preparing a recent post " Tall or short: what's better for climbing hard? " I was looking for data on height of the best climbers in order to find an answer to the question posed in the title. For rock climbing it's tricky - even if such data was easily available, it's hard to make strong claims comparing climbers based on the grade they have climbed, when the routes they have sent are in different countries or different continents. In competitions, on the other hand, athletes are tested in a very controlled environment against exactly the same challenges thrown at them by the routesetters. If there were a strong tendency towards a certain stature among the best competition climbers, it would clearly indicate an underlying advantage, at least on plastic. Therefore, I was hoping to find multiple analysis of the height statistics of competition climbers on the internet, or at the very minimum a clear answer to what is the average height among the best competit...
Read more

Tall or short: what's better for climbing hard?

Image
This seems to be a controversial topic, probably because the answer is not as simple as in many other, especially well established, sports (and because climbers love excuses to why they didn't send). Virtually all of the athletes in, for instance, high jump are tall. In gymnastics you retire already during the puberty, if you grow over a certain height. Still, even in the long-established sports the outliers sometimes can perform surprisingly well - before the first victories of Usain Bolt everyone thought that being short and muscular (not that he isn't muscular, but other sprinters are often more muscular) is the optimal body type for the 100 m dash. And probably it is the optimal body type - one or a small number of outliers don't flip the rule, they weaken it. Nevertheless, in running disciplines, be it a sprint or a marathon, athletes tend to have quite similar  stature , seemingly less diverse than in climbing.   Bouldering World Cup podium, Meiringen 2021. Photo by P...
Read more

Technical climbing: slabs vs. overhangs

Image
How often can we see a top climber explaining a route they are working on with something that goes along this line: "the headwall is not that hard, but it's technical climbing". They spent several sessions polishing the heel hooks, the toe hooks, the timing of dynamic moves, the nuances of generating momentum on the meat of this overhanging beast. They did the final slab second go. It had three bad footholds and a weird crossover move on sharp crimps, but this is the technical climbing, not the overhanging part. I just don't get the logic here.   A sketchy slab and a straightforward overhang. Or the other way around? Photos by Sophie Grieve-Williams and Hu Chen on Unsplash .   To be honest, sometimes I'm not sure what people mean by technical climbing. There are so many different techniques, is it like anything but ladder climbing? It's even used in contradictory contexts, some people say "it's technical" when it's easy climbing, others wh...
Read more