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Showing posts with the label beta

Bizarre beta: inside flag

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The inside flag, when correctly applied,   can make a sequence much more secure compared to the alternatives, yet it is one of the techniques that are rarely seen outdoors . It's not especially hard to perform it - I would say it's much easier than a foot swap, which is usually the other option for doing the same move. Therefore, the infrequent occurrence of the inside flag in the beta of rock climbers might be due to the confusion about when to use it and what can we gain with it. Additionally, it's relatively uncommon to find a situation where an inside flag is really the best solution, but when it is, it might make a move easier or, which is usually the case, less low-percentage.

Bizarre beta: four points off

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  Jernej Kruder on Three degrees of separation 9a+ (5.15a) Dynos. There are hardly any hard climbs without dynamic movement, but flying through the air before grabbing the next hold after fully separating from the wall, that's another level. Four-points-off dynos are like 360 dunks, they are the pinnacle of dynamic climbing (well, then there are 360 dynos that you can see on Instagram, and even hula hoop dynos, but that's a different story).

Bizarre beta: feet first

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Dave Graham on Petrichor 8C (V15)   Petrichor 8C is a boulder problem in Rocklands, South Africa, first solved by Dave Graham. What's special about it is that, apart from small crimps and compression climbing, the method of the first  ascensionist included a bat hang, i.e. a double toe hook above your head. It's a clear choice when going from two bad opposing holds, which are possible to hold using compression between them, to a jug. It's really hard to let go of one hand, unless you can change it for a foot, for instance using a heel hook, to maintain tension on the other hand. But so long as you squeeze both holds, you can move your lower limbs around, all the way above your head. Once you have two feet toe hooking on a big hold you can basically let go with your hands.